Keratin is a protein that is the key structural building block for hair, skin and nails. Keratin is found in humans and animals alike in forms ranging from hooves to soft flexible skin. This shows you how strong and delicate keratin can be. When the outer layer of keratin becomes damaged it affects the new cells that are no longer being protected beneath it. This causes damage in the form of dry, brittle hair or rough and cracked skin.

A keratin treatment is a professional salon service in which liquid keratin is used to smooth and fill in the damage of the hair's cuticle layer. Keratin treatments are unlike perms or relaxers in that they don't actually change the hair's disulfide bonds making them a semi-permanent treatment that lasts around 3-5 months, depending on the hair's texture. A Keratin treatment creates a barrier from heat and humidity so it can be a great treatment for clients that have perfectly healthy hair but are looking to have their natural curl and frizz smoothed out and protected from the elements. The service will not remove the curl completely but it will cut styling and straightening time in half, if not more. For clients with damaged hair, the treatment will help to repair the hair, so it is not only completely safe to use on hair that has been previously highlighted or colored; it is beneficial. .

What brand is best ?

Keratin Complex has dominated the market by the end of 2011 because it undoubtedly offers the best performance of a keratin smoothing product, and unlike Brazillian treatments, it meets the strictest safety standards with regard to formaldehyde. Keratin Complex’s MSDS clearly specifies that the potential release of traces of formaldehyde gas as a result of the heating process, but in all cases, the measured salon exposures are well below OSHA’s most conservative exposure limits. This is not true for other brands; see the next section on safety for more information.

California smooth is a proprietary blend of Quinoa Protein and Keratin Amino Acids. The Keratin Amino Acids and Quinoa Protein Fibers adhere to the natural bonds in the hair, resulting in a calming, smoothing and natural effect. It provides slightly less in the way of reduction of frizz and curl as compared to Keratin Complex, and lasts up to 3 months as compared to the 3-5 months for Keratin Complex. It will be more appealing to some as it is a more natural product, and can safely be used on pregnant and nursing women with their physicians permission.

Are Keratin Treatments Safe?

Adrian uses the Keratin Complex brand because it does not contain any of the ingredients that are known to be potentially hazerdous. Much talk has been made about the safety of keratin treatments because almost without exception, they contain formaldehyde, which hardens and bonds the liquid keratin to the hair when exposed to high temperatures. (This is why the hair is flat-ironed during the process). If they do not contain formaldehyde, they usually contain chemicals that break down during the heating and bonding process to release formaldehyde gas. For this reason, the U.S. Department of Labor's Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) recommends that salon owners use products that do not contain formaldehyde, methylene glycol, formalin, methylene oxide, paraform, formic aldehyde, methanal, oxomethane, oxymethylene or Chemical Abstract Service Number 50-00-0.

Not all treatments are considered equal. Tests found dangerously high levels of formaldehyde in the Brazilian Keratin Treatment (BKT) brand, about 10 times higher than what is registered as safe. Many other companies claim safer options, because they produce levels below what is considered safe. However, The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), an industry-funded and self-policing body, recommends that products should be “limited to 0.2% as free formaldehyde but [kept] to [a] minimum; and should not be used in products intended to be aerosolized.” A tentative conclusion by the CIR indicates that there is no safe level of formaldehyde that can be used in products that will be vaporized (all keratin treatments release large amounts of steam into the air during the ironing process).

Adrian has recently started using Keratin Complex because it offers longer-lasting results than California Smooth, and after much research, he is convinced of the safety of the product. Keratin Complex contains a unique, bonded aldehyde technology which prevents any harmful gases from being released. Although Keratin Complex’s MSDS specifies a potential release of traces of formaldehyde gas as a result of the heating process, in all cases, the measured salon exposures are well below OSHA’s most conservative exposure limits. For more information, visit the Keratin Complex website.

Safety Links:

9/8/2011 The U.S. Department of Labor's Occupational Safety and Health Administration has cited "Coppola Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy" and "Marcia Teixeira" for 3 health violations.

UPDATE: Keratin Complex states that "All of the referenced citations were addressed and, where applicable, a corrective action or plan was developed and implemented prior to the citations being sent to Keratin Complex...We disagree with OSHA’s inflammatory and inaccurate report and we are asking for a full retraction. Keratin Complex not only complies with all OSHA standards but we meet or exceed their safety standards and requirements.” go to the Keratin Complex website for more details.

Warning letter from the Department of Public Health to Brazilian Blowout dated 8/22/11: Product is an "adulterated (poisinous) cosmetic" and a "misbranded cosmetic" because it's" labeling is false or misleading".

UPDATE: Brazilian Blowout is "working directly with the FDA to help clear up the controversy". However, It is important to understand that Brazilian Blowout contains methylene glycol, the liquid form of formaldehyde. Keratin Complex does not.

ABC 7 NEWS: California sues Brazilian Blowout over health concerns

Dr. OZ Show: The Dangers of Hair Straighteners Part 1

Reuters: U.S. adds formaldehyde to list of known carcinogens

Environmental Working Group: Adverse Reactions and Injuries of Hair Straighteners

time.com: Warning: Getting Your Hair Straightened Could Be Hazardous To Your Health

 

Keratin Smoothing Questions & Answers

Q: How is Keratin Smoothing different from Japanese Straightening and thermal reconditioning?
A: Japanese hair straightening (also known as thermal reconditioning) changes the internal bond of human hair, while keratin smoothing does not. It only smooths-out the cuticle and repairs hair damage. Japanese hair straightening produces stick-straight, permanent results (roots grow in curly), while keratin smoothing lasts for several weeks to five months(depending on brand) and leaves hair with body and versatility to be worn straight or curly. Keratin smoothing will fade gradually from the hair, leaving it eventually unchanged. Japanese Straightening, on the other hand, has issues with hair re-growth, and a danger of hair breakage - especially with repeated applications.

Q: How long will the Keratin Smoothing Treatment last?
A: 3-5 months for Keratin Complex depending on lifestyle and maintenance, provided the client follows all after care instructions.

Q: Can hair be colored before the treatment?
A: Yes! A great time to have the treatment done would be directly after permanent color, semi-permanent or highlights. The treatment will extend the life and seal the color in, leaving it vibrant. Alternatively, color may be done 3-5 days after treatment for optimal results.

Q: How many days after the treatment before the hair can get wet or be washed?
A: You must wait 3 days (72 hours) before washing your hair or swimming.

Q: Can the hair be pulled back or clipped up during the 72-hour waiting period?
A: No. The hair should not have any impressions made by using bands or clips.

Q: What should be done if the hair gets wet during the 72-hour waiting period?
A: Blow the hair dry and flat iron with medium to low heat immediately.

Q: What kind of shampoo and conditioner should be used?
A: Keratin Care Shampoo & Conditioner (Sodium-Chloride Free) or Keratin Color Care Shampoo & Conditioner (Sodium-Chloride and Sulfate Free). Alternatively, your hair care professional may recommend a sodium-chloride free shampoo suited to your hair texture.

Q: How often can the treatment be done?
A: The treatment can be done as often as every 4-6 weeks.

Q: Is the re-application of the treatment done on the entire head or just on the new growth?
A: The re-application should be done on the entire head as the build-up of keratin can only improve, not harm, the hair.

Q: Should the hair be cut before or after the treatment?
A: We recommend that the hair be cut after the treatment, as the hair will have a smoother texture and will lie differently.

Q: Can the treatment be done if I'm pregnant or nursing?
A: With California Smooth, with the permission of your physician, yes. It is not recommended with Keratin Complex.

Q: Can I go for a swim in the pool or in the ocean?
A: After the initial 72 hours you can go swimming, but keep in mind that chlorinated water and salt water can affect the longevity of the treatment. Davines Yogurt Buffer Gel is highly recommended as a guard against chlorine for all hair types. You should rinse the hair with fresh water as soon as possible after swimming.

 

After-Care Instructions

• For 72 hours following the treatment, do not shampoo the hair. Renee Furterer dry shampoo (#2 on Elle top 10 products of all time) can be used during this time (and after) and can be purchased at the time of your service.
• Do not get the hair wet. If hair should get wet, blow dry gently and flat iron as soon as possible.
• Do not use hair accessories, rubber bands, hair ties or clips that could cause a crease or indention to the hair.
• After 72 hours, hair may be shampooed with a sodium chloride free shampoo.

For more information, see the FAQ section in the next panel on this page or visit the Keratin Complex web site.

 

Express Blow Out is a unique, one-hour service that gives the hair a softer, smoother and silkier texture for up to six weeks. Hair can be washed after just eight hours. Express Blow Out is perfect for all hair types.

• Express Blow Out is a perfect add-on service after a color or haircut. It will add an hour to 1.5 hours to total service time.
• Perfect to try out a smoothing treatment for a shorter period of time, or if you think you will want to return to your curls sooner than 3 months.
• May be done at every haircut or color retouch service.
• Takes half the time in the salon for half the price. Lasts up to half as long. Results will vary.
• Can be done with round brush instead of flat iron.